After Bodega Bay we headed north on Highway 1. The fog continued and kept us wearing layers. We stayed at an old, historic place called the Gualala Hotel. The owners were super friendly and the room was only $60 – pretty darn cheap for the California coast! It was a “European Style” room, which means you get a couple beds and that’s it. The bathrooms were down the hall and Imre suffered without a TV. We played pool downstairs in the bar where Jack London used to hang out. I liked the place a lot and felt like I was in an episode of “Fawlty Towers.”

In the morning we had coffee at Café La La, an artsy place where the local hipsters hang out (and several tourists). I sat in a Suess-like purple chair which according to a sign was donated by the “Grand Poobah.” As we hit the road, the chilly morning air cut through our jeans and fogged our visors. My hands were toasty warm, and I was glad I’d installed grip heaters before the trip.

We saw a few cows enjoying the view. They were between the road and the water, and certainly not where they belonged.

Several miles of twisty coastal road later we arrived at the Point Arena Lighthouse. It’s a very old one with a giant Fresnel lens composed of hundreds of individual pieces of glass and insured for $3.5 million. These days they light it with a much smaller electric lamp, but they hope to restore the big original and put it back in service someday. The view from the top was breathtaking and well worth climbing 150 steps (which of course required the breathtaking).

As we continued our journey north, Highway 1 turned inland and began to climb the mountains. This was one of the twistiest and most fun roads of the trip. I rode entirely too fast, using the full width of my tires and occasionally dragging my toes in the turns – big fun!

Highway 1 ends near Legget and the famous drive – through tree. Of course we had to ride through it, and then hang around to watch the steady stream of people trying to squeeze their SUVs into the tiny hole.

We continued north on 101 for another 30 miles and stayed the night at the Sherwood Forest Motel in Garberville.

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